Leather cuts: A comprehensive guide

As we all know, leather is a natural material derived from the skin of animals through a process called tanning. The entire leather skin of the animal is called a hide. However, this hide, being a natural material, does not have uniform surface properties, which can make a significant difference when it comes to the quality and application of a particular portion of the skin. It takes a highly skilled artisan to identify each section based on its quality and intended use, then make the leather cuts accordingly. Moreover, leather is not like any other synthetic material; it requires very special skills to cut it into useful pieces to make leather products. These leather cuts can be based on various factors such as thickness, density, and more.

In this article, we will discuss the different types of leather cuts and their determining factors. We will use cowhide leather as an example because it is large enough to be easily cut into separate pieces according to quality and sold separately, unlike smaller hides such as goat, sheep, or pig hides, which are usually sold whole. As a maker of leather garments and accessories, my team of expert artisans and I will try to address all your queries regarding leather cuts. Let’s get started:

Leather cut based on the part of animal

Based on the part of the animal the leather is obtained from, it is divided into four grades. The butt part is the most premium one as it is the strongest of all, and these characteristics change as we move towards other parts of the hide. There is no sudden change in properties but rather a transition; for instance, the butt part is also softer and more flexible near the belly and stiffer near the middle section of the buttocks. The further grades are explained specifically:

1.| First Grade leather cut

The first and highest quality grade of hide is found near the buttocks of the animal, especially near the rear end of the spine, as the fibers are very tightly packed together, resulting in the highest strength leather. This portion of the skin makes up only 13% of the whole leather hide, and due to its low availability and high demand, it is the most expensive part of the leather hide.

2.| Second Grade leather cut

The second grade of leather is obtained from just below the top portion of the animal hide. This is also very high-quality leather, but it is considered inferior compared to the first grade. This portion of the animal skin contributes to 30% of the hide and is used to make safety gear, which requires high-strength material.

3.| Third Grade leather cut

The third grade of leather comes from the belly part of the animal, which has comparatively lower strength. It is of lower quality due to the looser fibers, as this area undergoes contracting and expanding as the animal breathes during its life, so it naturally needs to be flexible and softer. This portion of the leather area starts from the top of the neck down to right before the belly of the animal and contributes to approximately 32% of the whole hide.

4.| Fourth Grade leather cut

The belly and bottom part of the animal, including the legs and head skin, is considered fourth grade, which is the lowest quality leather of all, even lower than the third grade. This portion of skin contributes to the remaining 25% of the hide, with 17% on the belly and legs, and the rest 8% on the head. It is used to make flexible leather goods such as linings and socks.

Leather Cuts Based on Layer of Leather

The leather cuts based on the particular layer of the skin that goes through the leather resulting in splitting of the hide are full grain, top grain, and split. They are basically different portions of the hide divided by the density of fibers, which obviously vary by transition. These layers of hide are sanded and buffed down by tannery workers to get the desired type of leather with its unique properties. Here’s a detailed overview of all:

1.| Full Grain Leather

Full grain leather is the highest quality leather of all as it contains the whole grain layer. Full grain leather has only the hair removed, with all the irregularities and defects of natural skin intact, such as bite marks, scratches, uneven grains, branding marks, and more.

Full grain leather is the strongest type of leather, containing the natural grain texture, which usually undergoes aniline dyeing to keep the texture intact and make every hide unique.

Full grain leather can be split into thinner pieces, helping craftsmen create leather goods with thinner leather without compromising the strength and quality of the item. It is also one of the most expensive types of leather.

2.| Top Grain Leather

Top grain leather is basically full grain leather that has undergone a sanding and buffing process to give it a uniform appearance. As discussed earlier, full grain leather contains a natural grain layer which is not free from defects and irregularities. Sometimes top grain leather is embossed with artificial prints to give it a desired texture. Top grain leather is also quite strong but is considered inferior compared to full grain.

In my opinion, top grain is the best of both worlds as it is smooth and strong to a desired level, making it a perfect type of leather for various leather goods such as comfortable leather jackets, handbags, and more. One such type of top grain leather that is both strong and velvety is nubuck, which is used to make shoes and other leather accessories.

3.| Split Leather

Split leather is obtained after the full grain and top grain layers of animal skin are separated. The leftover part of the hide, which has a napped and velvety surface texture, is known as suede leather. It is the inner portion of the animal skin. It has no grain layer, which makes it weaker compared to full grain and top grain, but it is also a softer and more flexible type of leather. Moreover, it is way more breathable compared to grain leather, making it a perfect choice for comfortable leather garments and shoes. Sometimes manufacturers coat it with a polyurethane coating to make it look like grain leather.

Conclusion

In conclusion, If you ask me if real leather has any alternative, I would say that real leather holds a special charm that cannot be replicated by any artificial material. Leather’s natural essence and the uniqueness of each skin give it an irreplaceable character. While some cheaper options like vegan leather and faux leather are available, can they replace real leather? In my view, nothing can replace the authenticity of natural leather.

If you have any doubts, feel free to ask in the comment section, and for more information on leather products, you can check our other articles or you can contact us. LeatherBlues is known as one of the best stores for real leather products. Explore our amazing collection of leather garments and services.

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